— — a river-town the dry country leans against.
“A city on the south bank of the Tungabhadra, where the river takes a slow bend before its meeting with the Krishna. The Konda Reddy fort still keeps the old gate above the water. Kurnool was the first capital of Andhra State for a short window in the 1950s, then handed the role to Hyderabad and went back to being a river town. The country around it is dry granite, and the river is the thing the city is built to face.
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Kurnool sits on the south bank of the Tungabhadra River in the Rayalaseema region of Andhra Pradesh, about 215 kilometres south of Hyderabad. The city was the first capital of Andhra State from 1953 to 1956, before the role passed to Hyderabad after the formation of Andhra Pradesh. The 2011 census recorded a city population of around 460,000. The land around the city is granite-hill country, and the Tungabhadra meets the Krishna a short distance downstream at Sangameswaram.
The Konda Reddy fort, locally Konda Reddy Buruju, rises in the middle of the modern city as a tower of grey-brown stone above the river plain. It dates to the Vijayanagara period and takes its name from a 16th-century chieftain held there. A short drive west, the Belum Caves run more than three kilometres underground, the longest natural cave system in the Indian subcontinent that is open to visitors. Both are managed under the Andhra Pradesh tourism department.
Kurnool sits on the Bangalore–Hyderabad corridor, with a junction station on Indian Railways and the NH44 highway running through it. The dry season from November to February is the kindest for walking the riverbank and the old town; summers reach into the low forties Celsius. The 1,000-year-old Mahanandi Shiva temple, with its spring-fed tank, lies about 80 kilometres east near Nandyal, and the Srisailam reservoir on the Krishna is about 150 kilometres southeast.