— — stone that learned every gesture the body has.
“Twenty-odd sandstone temples in a clearing on the Bundelkhand plateau, all that remain of about eighty-five built by the Chandela kings between 950 and 1050. The carvings are famous for one register of subject matter and overlooked for the rest, the gods and musicians and hunters and the daily traffic of a courtly world. The site sits quietly between visits.
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Khajuraho lies in Chhatarpur district, Madhya Pradesh, about 600 kilometres southeast of Delhi on the Bundelkhand plateau. The temples were built between roughly 950 and 1050 CE by the Chandela dynasty in the nagara style of north Indian Hindu architecture. About 25 of the original 85 survive, divided into Western, Eastern, and Southern groups. The Kandariya Mahadev, tallest at around 31 metres, is the largest and most elaborately carved. UNESCO inscribed the site in 1986. Khajuraho Airport (HJR) takes direct flights from Delhi and Varanasi.
The temples are cut from buff-coloured sandstone quarried locally and joined without mortar. Each sits on a raised platform (jagati) carrying a sequence of sanctum, vestibule, hall, and porch beneath a clustered tower (shikhara) that rises in scaled-down replicas of itself. The exterior bands hold thousands of figures: gods, attendants, mithuna couples, lions, dancers. Roughly ten percent of the surviving carvings are erotic, which is the share most often reproduced. The Archaeological Survey of India maintains the Western Group inside a ticketed enclosure with cut grass and gravel paths.
The Western Group is open daily from sunrise to sunset, with an entry fee for non-Indian visitors (₹600; ₹40 for SAARC citizens; free for children under 15). A nightly sound-and-light show runs in two languages on the lawn opposite the Lakshmana temple. The Khajuraho Dance Festival, held the last week of February at the temple platform, brings classical performers from across India. The site is reached by direct flight from Delhi or Varanasi; the nearest large rail station is Mahoba, 64 kilometres north.