— — a Buddhist city carved into a black basalt hill.
“A hundred-odd rock-cut Buddhist caves on the basalt slopes of Sanjay Gandhi National Park, inside the northern limits of greater Mumbai. The carvers worked here for more than a thousand years, leaving prayer halls, monk cells, water cisterns, and a great chaitya whose stone pillars still hold the echo. The forest has come back around it; leopards live in the same hills.
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The Kanheri Caves sit in the basalt highland of Sanjay Gandhi National Park, about 40 kilometres north of central Mumbai in Maharashtra, India. They comprise 109 rock-cut Buddhist caves carved between the first century BCE and the tenth century CE, spanning the Hinayana and Mahayana phases of Indian Buddhism. The site lay on a trade route between the ancient port of Sopara and the inland Deccan, which sustained the monastic community through donations from merchants and rulers for over a millennium.
The caves are cut entirely from a single hill of Deccan Trap basalt, a hard volcanic rock laid down some 66 million years ago in the eruptions that ended the Cretaceous. The largest, Cave 3, is a chaitya hall about 26 metres long with a stupa at the apse and rows of octagonal pillars carved from the living rock. Carved cisterns still collect monsoon water; inscriptions name the donors who paid for each. Many cells retain the original stone benches where monks slept.
The caves lie inside Sanjay Gandhi National Park; entry is from the Borivali gate, with a separate small fee for the caves themselves. From the gate, the caves are about seven kilometres up a tarred road; visitors walk, hire a park bus, or share an auto-rickshaw. The Archaeological Survey of India administers the site, open daily except Monday. The best months are November to February, after the monsoon, when the forest is green and the basalt cool underfoot.