— — the temple where the deity drinks the offering.
“Kal Bhairav temple stands on the northern edge of Ujjain, near the Kshipra river, in the old kingdom of Avanti. The deity is Kal Bhairav, a fierce form of Shiva who guards the city. Pilgrims bring a small clay pot of liquor as offering; the priest tips it to the stone face of the murti and the liquor disappears. Nobody has explained the mechanism in any way that satisfies everyone who has watched it. The temple is busy from before dawn, especially on Sundays, and most visibly during the Simhastha Kumbh Mela that comes to Ujjain every twelve years.
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Kal Bhairav temple sits on the north edge of Ujjain, in Madhya Pradesh, near the Kshipra river. The current structure is largely an eighteenth-century Maratha-period rebuilding under Mahadji Scindia, though the site is far older and is mentioned in the Skanda Purana as one of the eight Bhairava shrines that guard the directions around the city. Ujjain itself is one of the seven sacred cities of Hinduism and the seat of the Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga a short distance south.
The temple opens before dawn and stays busy through the morning, with the heaviest crowds on Sunday, which is Bhairav's day. The standard offering is a small earthen pot of country liquor, sold at stalls outside; pilgrims hand it to the priest, who tips it to the deity's mouth. Phones go in a deposit at the gate. Pilgrims often pair the visit with the Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga, 2 km south, especially during the Bhasma Aarti at 4 a.m.
Ujjain is one of four cities that host the Kumbh Mela, called Simhastha here, when Jupiter enters Leo. The next gathering is scheduled for 2028 and draws tens of millions of pilgrims to bathing ghats on the Kshipra over roughly a month. Kal Bhairav and Mahakaleshwar are the two most-visited temples through the festival. Outside the Mela, Bhairava Ashtami in late November and the Shivaratri night each year are the other peaks.