— — a fort town under a sacred mountain.
“A small city at the western foot of Girnar, the granite massif that rises out of the Saurashtra plain. Inside the old town the Uparkot fort runs along its own ridge, with stepped wells cut into the rock below. Pilgrims start the Girnar climb before first light. Ten thousand steps to the summit shrine, and the city lies in haze the whole way up.
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Junagadh sits in the Saurashtra region of Gujarat, at the western foot of Mount Girnar, and has a population of about 320,000. The name means *old fort* in Gujarati, after the Uparkot citadel that has stood on the ridge above the city for more than two thousand years. It was the capital of a princely state under the Babi dynasty from 1730 until accession to India in 1948, an event that included a brief and contested attempt to join Pakistan.
Uparkot Fort holds the rock-cut Buddhist caves of the 1st to 4th centuries, two great stepwells (the Adi-Chadi Vav and the Navghan Kuvo, the latter cut about fifty metres into the basalt), and the Nilam and Manek cannons brought from Diu in the 16th century. Below the fort the Mahabat Maqbara, the mausoleum of the Junagadh nawab finished in 1892, carries silver minarets wrapped in external spiral staircases, an Indo-Islamic form with few parallels in India.
The Girnar climb begins at the Bhavnath taleti, the trailhead north of the old town, and rises through about 9,999 stone steps to the summit shrines of Amba Mata and Dattatreya, on the two highest peaks. Most pilgrims set out between two and four in the morning to reach the top by sunrise. The full circuit takes a strong walker eight to ten hours. A ropeway opened in October 2020 now carries visitors to the first plateau at the Jain temple complex of Neminath.