— — a town of temple bells in the lower Himalayas.
“The winter capital of Jammu and Kashmir holds the lower foothills above the Tawi River, a city of shrines feeding the road north to Vaishno Devi. The Raghunath complex carries seven sanctums under one roof. Bahu Fort sits across the river on a ridge above the old town, where parakeets gather at dusk.
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Jammu is the winter capital of the Indian union territory of Jammu and Kashmir and the second largest city of the region after Srinagar. It sits at roughly 327 metres on the banks of the Tawi, a tributary of the Chenab, with the Shivalik range rising to the north. The 2011 census recorded a metropolitan population near 651,000. The city is the rail and road gateway to Vaishno Devi, the Hindu pilgrimage shrine at Katra, about 50 kilometres north, which draws between eight and ten million pilgrims a year.
Jammu is known as the City of Temples. The Raghunath complex, begun by Maharaja Gulab Singh in 1835 and completed by his son Ranbir Singh in 1860, holds seven interconnected shrines on a single plot in the old town. Bahu Fort, originally raised more than three thousand years ago and rebuilt by Dogra rulers in the eighteenth century, stands on a ridge across the Tawi and contains the Bawe Wali Mata temple. The pink sandstone Ranbireshwar Temple, finished in 1883, holds one of the tallest Shiva lingams in north India.
Most visitors pass through Jammu on the way to Vaishno Devi at Katra, where the shrine sits in a cave at 1,584 metres on Trikuta hill. The pilgrimage walk from Katra base is about 12 kilometres uphill, and Indian Railways runs the daily Vande Bharat from New Delhi to Katra in roughly eight hours. Within Jammu itself, the Amar Mahal Palace museum, built in the 1890s in French château style, sits above the city and holds a 120 kilogram solid gold throne of the Dogra dynasty, along with a Pahari miniature collection.