— — qawwali rising after the evening prayer.
“The shrine of the Sufi saint Nizamuddin Auliya, who died in 1325. The marble dargah sits inside a dense lane-quarter of old Delhi, with the tomb of Amir Khusrau a few metres away at his feet. Qawwali singers gather every Thursday after the maghrib prayer; the courtyard fills, the song carries over the wall, and the city steps aside for an hour.
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The dargah is the tomb-shrine of Khwaja Nizamuddin Auliya, fourth saint of the Chishti Sufi order, who lived in Delhi from around 1238 to 1325. The shrine complex sits in Nizamuddin Basti, the old settlement that grew around him in his lifetime, immediately west of Humayun's Tomb in south-central Delhi. The white-marble tomb building, with its lattice screens and inlaid floor, dates in its current form to the 16th-century rebuilding under Faridun Khan; later Mughal and post-Mughal patrons added the surrounding courtyards and the adjacent baoli.
Two cycles shape the year at the dargah. The weekly cycle is the Thursday qawwali, performed after the maghrib prayer in the courtyard by hereditary qawwal families — a tradition reaching back to Amir Khusrau in the saint's own lifetime. The annual cycle is Urs, the death anniversary, observed for several days each Rabi-ul-Sani in the Islamic calendar; the basti fills with pilgrims and chador-offerings cover the tomb. A second, smaller Urs marks Amir Khusrau himself, weeks earlier.
Visitors of all faiths are welcomed at the shrine. The complex is open from before dawn until late evening; the strongest hour is Thursday after sunset, when qawwali begins. Modest dress is expected, heads covered for women, shoes left at the gate. The lanes leading in pass food stalls long known for nihari and biryani — Karim's outpost and the older Ghalib Kabab Corner among them. Photography is discouraged inside the inner sanctum and during qawwali; a small offering at the dargah is customary.