— — the city the chilli built.
“Guntur sits on the dry plain of coastal Andhra Pradesh, about forty kilometres inland from the Bay of Bengal and a short drive south of the Krishna River. The Mirchi Yard handles one of the largest chilli markets in Asia; the Guntur sannam variety leaves the warehouses in jute sacks bound for Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, and the Gulf. Amaravati, the new state capital, was laid out across the river to the north.
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Guntur is the administrative seat of Guntur District in Andhra Pradesh, on the coastal plain about forty kilometres west of the Bay of Bengal and twenty kilometres south of the Krishna River. The 2011 Indian census recorded a city population of about 743,000, and the metropolitan figure has since climbed past 870,000. The municipality has held a place in regional commerce since the eighteenth-century rule of the French and then the Nizam of Hyderabad. The Mirchi Yard at Lam, on the city's western edge, is one of the largest chilli markets in Asia.
Guntur sits at sixteen degrees north and only thirty-three metres above sea level, so the climate runs hot and dry for most of the year. April and May regularly bring daytime highs above 40 degrees Celsius, sometimes touching 45. The southwest monsoon arrives in June and tapers through September, dropping the bulk of the city's annual rainfall on the surrounding chilli and cotton fields. Dust from the open lots and the long rural roads carries the smell of dried red chilli for weeks after each harvest.
Guntur sits on the Howrah-Chennai main line and is one of the busier railway stops between Vijayawada and Tenali. Vijayawada Airport, about forty kilometres north, is the nearest commercial airport, with daily flights to Hyderabad, Bengaluru, and Delhi. The Mirchi Yard at Lam is open to visitors during trading hours. Kondaveedu Fort, a hill citadel from the fourteenth-century Reddy dynasty, lies about thirty kilometres west; the climb to the upper bastion takes about an hour and gives a long view back across the plain.