— — the river that holds half a country's prayers.
“The Ganges leaves the Gangotri Glacier as clear meltwater and arrives at the Bay of Bengal carrying the silt of half a subcontinent. In between it passes Haridwar, Rishikesh, Prayagraj, and Varanasi, where the lamps go down the water at dusk. A river that is also a rite.
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The Ganges rises at Gaumukh, the snout of the Gangotri Glacier in the Indian state of Uttarakhand, at about 4,000 metres, and runs roughly 2,525 kilometres east and south to the Bay of Bengal. It drains a basin of around one million square kilometres across India and Bangladesh, joining the Brahmaputra in the Sundarbans delta. Hindus call it Ganga, and its course threads Haridwar, Prayagraj, Varanasi, and Patna before the sea.
The water that leaves the glacier is silver-cold and clear; by Varanasi it is the colour of old bronze, carrying suspended silt from the Himalayas and the Gangetic plain. At Prayagraj, the Ganges meets the Yamuna and the unseen Saraswati at the Triveni Sangam, a confluence honoured for at least two millennia. The river drops only about 200 metres across its lower 1,800 kilometres, which is why it moves so slowly through Bihar and Bengal.
The Kumbh Mela rotates between Haridwar, Prayagraj, Nashik, and Ujjain on a twelve-year cycle, with the Maha Kumbh at Prayagraj drawing tens of millions of pilgrims to bathe at the Sangam. The Ganga Aarti at Varanasi's Dashashwamedh Ghat is performed every evening, year after year, with brass lamps swung in slow arcs by priests in saffron. A river measured in seasons and centuries.