— — the temple where the visa is the prayer.
“Chilkur Balaji sits on the edge of Osman Sagar lake, about thirty kilometres west of Hyderabad. The temple is small and old, held by local tradition to be more than five hundred years old, and it has acquired one of India's most particular reputations. Devotees walk around the sanctum eleven times to make a wish and one hundred and eight times when the wish is granted. Many of those wishes are for an American visa.
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Chilkur Balaji Temple stands on the bank of Osman Sagar, locally known as Gandipet, about thirty kilometres west of Hyderabad in Telangana, southern India. Local tradition places the temple's founding more than five hundred years ago, well before the founding of Hyderabad itself in 1591. The deity is Lord Balaji, the same form of Vishnu worshipped at the great hill temple of Tirumala in neighbouring Andhra Pradesh; Chilkur is often described as a companion shrine to Tirumala. The temple sits in a small village outside the city, reached by a road that follows the lake's southern shore.
The temple is governed by a single, unusual rule: there is no hundi, no donation box, no VIP queue, no paid darshan. Devotees enter, take darshan, and then perform pradakshina, circumambulation of the sanctum, eleven times to make a wish, and one hundred and eight times to give thanks when the wish has been granted. A wooden counter set into the wall marks the count. On a busy Sunday the line of devotees walking the parikrama path can run several hundred deep. The pace is slow and the temperature inside the compound rises with the count.
Hyderabad is one of the principal cities of the Telugu IT industry and home to a United States consulate that processes a large share of southern Indian visa applications. Over the last three decades Chilkur Balaji has acquired the popular name Visa Balaji, the temple where IT engineers, students, and families pray before a US visa interview, return to give thanks at one hundred and eight, and the cycle continues. The custom is documented in Indian national newspapers and has been described in academic studies of contemporary South Indian religion. The name has stuck.