— — a god with almost nowhere else to go.
“The Jagatpita Brahma Mandir at Pushkar, Rajasthan. One of very few temples in India dedicated to Brahma, the creator, who otherwise has almost no temples of his own. A red spire, a marble floor, a silver turtle in the courtyard, and the lake a few stone steps below. In November the camel fair pitches around the town and the bells start before sunrise. — from the studio
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The Jagatpita Brahma Mandir stands at the western edge of Pushkar, a small pilgrim town in Ajmer district, Rajasthan, set in a bowl of the Aravalli hills at about five hundred and ten metres of elevation. Pushkar Lake, ringed by fifty-two ghats, lies a few steps below the temple. Ajmer city is fourteen kilometres south-east; Jaipur is about a hundred and fifty kilometres north-east. The current structure is generally dated to the fourteenth century, though local tradition holds the foundation far older and attributes it to the sage Vishwamitra.
The temple is built of stone and white marble, marked outside by a red shikhara spire crowned with a hamsa, the goose that is Brahma's vahana. The sanctum holds a four-faced, four-armed image of Brahma, with Gayatri on his left. A silver turtle is set into the marble floor of the courtyard, and the walls carry rows of small silver coins donated by pilgrims. The structure has been rebuilt and restored repeatedly, most substantially under the Maratha noble Gokulchand Parikh in the eighteenth century.
The temple opens before sunrise and closes around nine in the evening, with a long midday break common in summer. Leather is removed at the gate and photography of the inner sanctum is not permitted. The town fills sharply for the Pushkar Camel Fair around Kartik Purnima, the full moon of the Hindu month of Kartik, usually in November, when tens of thousands of pilgrims bathe in the lake and a livestock fair stretches across the dunes. Outside fair week the streets are quieter and the bells carry farther.