— — a red sandstone city the desert never finished.
“A walled desert city founded in 1488 by Rao Bika, second son of the Rathore ruler of Jodhpur, on a stretch of dry plain at the northern edge of the Thar. Junagarh Fort sits in the centre, one of the few major Rajput forts built on flat ground rather than on a hilltop, ringed by a moat and a low ridge of carved red sandstone. Outside the city, at Deshnoke, the temple to Karni Mata keeps its rats.
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Bikaner sits in the northern Thar Desert in the state of Rajasthan, about 330 kilometres northwest of Jaipur, at an elevation near 240 metres. The city was founded in 1488 by Rao Bika, a Rathore prince of Jodhpur, on land granted by the local Jat chieftains. It grew along a stretch of caravan route between Central Asia and the Gujarat ports, and remained the seat of a princely state until accession to India in 1949. The walled old city, the fort, and the temple at Deshnoke remain the core heritage of the region.
Junagarh Fort was begun in 1589 under Raja Rai Singh, a general in Akbar's army, and built outward across the following three centuries by successive rulers. The walls are carved Dulmera sandstone, a deep red local stone that holds detail well in the dry air. Inside, the Anup Mahal, the Karan Mahal, and the Phool Mahal carry some of the finest gold-leaf and lacquer work in Rajput architecture. Unlike most major Rajput forts, Junagarh stands on flat ground, defended by a moat and a low encircling ridge rather than a hill.
Bikaner is reached by overnight train from Delhi in roughly nine hours, or about a five-hour drive from Jaipur on NH11. The fort is open daily, generally from 10:00 to 16:30, with a separate ticket for the museum wing. The Karni Mata Temple at Deshnoke, about 30 kilometres south, is the principal day-trip and is open from early morning to evening. Late October through February is the comfortable season; summer days regularly exceed 45 °C and the desert wind carries fine sand into everything.