— — the forest that listens back.
“A teak and rosewood forest on the road from Mysuru down to Ooty. Elephants cross at dusk and the bus stops; the driver waits. Bandipur has been a tiger reserve since 1974 and a biosphere a long time before that. The drivers know which bend the langurs use. Nobody hurries.
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Bandipur covers about 872 square kilometres of southern Karnataka, on the slope between the Deccan plateau and the Nilgiri hills. It was declared one of the first nine Project Tiger reserves in 1974 and sits inside the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve alongside Mudumalai, Nagarhole and Wayanad. The forest is mostly dry and moist deciduous teak, with rosewood and sandalwood in the higher folds. The Moyar river marks the southern edge; the Mysuru-Ooty highway runs through the core. Elevations range from roughly 680 to 1,455 metres.
The air at Bandipur shifts with the season. The southwest monsoon arrives in June and the canopy holds it; by September the teak leaves are wide as dinner plates. In the dry months from January to April the same forest opens out, the leaf litter goes brittle underfoot, and a chital alarm-call carries half a kilometre. Smoke from controlled burns drifts low along the Moyar. Elephants move at the cool ends of the day, between the Kabini backwaters and the higher Gopalswamy Betta ridge.
The reserve runs morning and afternoon bus safaris out of the Melukamanahalli reception, six to nine and three to six, with private jeeps booked through the Karnataka Forest Department. The Mysuru-Ooty highway is closed to traffic between nine at night and six in the morning to keep night collisions off the road. Bandipur is roughly 220 kilometres from Bengaluru and 80 from Mysuru. The best months for sightings are March through May, when the water shrinks back to a few pools and the animals come to them.