— — a university town that built itself a lock industry.
“A city of two trades that have travelled further than the city itself. The brass and iron locks made in the old Upar Kot quarter ship to wholesalers across South Asia and the Gulf. A short tonga ride away, the red sandstone arcades of Aligarh Muslim University, founded by Sir Syed Ahmad Khan in 1875, hold one of the largest student bodies in India under a single name.
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Aligarh sits in western Uttar Pradesh on the Grand Trunk Road, roughly 130 kilometres southeast of Delhi and 350 north of Lucknow. The district has been continuously settled since at least the twelfth century, with the hilltop fortress of Aligarh Fort giving the modern city its name after the 1717 takeover by Sabit Khan. The current population sits above one million, supported by the university, the lock manufactories of the Upar Kot quarter, and a steady wholesale trade in brass hardware.
The Aligarh Muslim University campus, laid out from 1875 onward as the Muhammadan Anglo-Oriental College, draws its visual signature from red sandstone and white marble in a synthesis of Mughal arcade, English collegiate quad, and Indo-Saracenic dome. The Strachey Hall, the Sir Syed Hall, and the Jama Masjid built between 1879 and 1915 anchor the older quadrangles. Sir Syed Ahmad Khan worked with the British engineer Captain Pope on the earliest blocks before later phases were taken up by other hands.
The Aligarh Muslim University grounds are open to visitors on weekdays; the Maulana Azad Library, one of the largest in Asia by collection, requires a reader pass at the gate. The lock manufactories of the Upar Kot and Sarai Sultani neighbourhoods welcome short visits arranged through any local hardware wholesaler. The nearest international airport is Indira Gandhi in Delhi; Aligarh Junction station has direct trains to Delhi, Lucknow, and Kolkata several times a day.