— — a steel town that keeps a castle and a cave bath.
“The fourth-largest city in Hungary, set where the Bükk Mountains step down toward the Great Plain. The medieval Diósgyőr Castle sits on the western edge, a four-towered royal keep that once belonged to Queen Elizabeth of Hungary. South of the centre, the thermal water of Miskolctapolca runs through natural limestone caves where people have bathed for more than a century. Heavy industry shaped the twentieth century here, and the bones of it are still visible along the valley.
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Miskolc is the fourth-largest city in Hungary and the seat of Borsod-Abaúj-Zemplén County in the northeast of the country. It sits at about 130 metres elevation on the southern foot of the Bükk Mountains, the largest range in Hungary, roughly 180 kilometres northeast of Budapest along the M3 motorway. The Sajó River runs east of the centre and the Szinva, a smaller tributary, runs through the old town. The city has held an urban charter since the fourteenth century, when Louis I granted it market-town status.
Diósgyőr Castle stands on the western edge of the city, a square Gothic keep with four corner towers built in the late thirteenth century and rebuilt under Louis I of Hungary in the fourteenth. The castle later passed to Queen Elizabeth of Bosnia and remained a queen's residence under several Hungarian kings, a status known as the queens' castle. After centuries of military use and decay, a full reconstruction completed in 2014 returned the keep, the courtyard, and the upper hall to a fourteenth-century reading. It is one of the most visited medieval sites in Hungary.
Three kilometres south of the centre, the suburb of Miskolctapolca holds a rare thermal cave bath. Naturally heated water at about 30 degrees Celsius rises into a network of limestone caverns that the Romans and later the medieval town used informally. The modern bath complex opened in 1959 and links pools inside the cave passages with open-air pools outside. The cave water is low in mineral content and has a soft feel, unlike the harder mineral baths at Eger or Hévíz. Bathers move between the lit chambers and the outer terrace through the year.