— — pastel walls the river is slowly taking back.
“The capital of Guinea-Bissau, set on the wide estuary of the Geba River where it opens into the Atlantic. The Portuguese laid out Bissau Velho along the waterfront in the seventeenth century, and the painted plaster facades there are still standing, half-claimed by ficus roots and salt air. Carnival in February is the city's loudest week.
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Bissau lies on the north bank of the Geba River estuary on the Atlantic coast of West Africa, about eighty kilometres inland from the open sea. It is the capital and largest city of Guinea-Bissau, with a metropolitan population of roughly half a million. The Portuguese founded the settlement in 1687 as a slaving and trading post; independence from Portugal was declared in 1973 and recognised in 1974. Portuguese remains the official language alongside the more widely spoken Guinea-Bissau Kriol.
The old quarter, Bissau Velho, runs along the waterfront and holds the surviving Portuguese colonial buildings: pastel painted plaster over rendered masonry, low arcades, wooden shutters, and tile-roofed warehouses left from the cashew and groundnut trade. Much of it stands half-ruined after decades of conflict and tropical damp; ficus and frangipani have grown through several blocks. The Presidential Palace, shelled during the 1998 civil war, is a roofless shell at the centre of the district, slowly being reclaimed by vegetation.
Bissau's Carnival, held the week before Lent each February, is the loudest stretch of the year and the city's signature event. Neighbourhood groups, called grupos, parade in masks and costumes drawn from village traditions across the country, each district presenting its own theme. The Bijagós islanders bring traditional masks; mainland groups bring satirical political tableaux. The parades fill the main avenue and the waterfront for several days, with drumming late into the night.