— — the gannets, the fort, the wind off the race.
“The smallest of the inhabited Channel Islands, closer to France than to England. A Victorian ring of forts circles a three-by-one-and-a-half-mile island, broken only by the cobbled lanes of St Anne. Out on Les Etacs, a gannet colony eight thousand strong holds the wind. Nobody hurries.
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Alderney is the northernmost inhabited Channel Island, about eight miles west of France's Cap de la Hague and sixty miles south of the English coast. It is part of the Bailiwick of Guernsey but governs itself through the States of Alderney. The island runs three and a half miles long by one and a half wide, with a single town, St Anne, set inland from Braye Harbour. A Victorian chain of thirteen forts, raised in the 1850s against a feared French invasion, still rings the coast.
The forts are Alderney's signature. Thirteen of them were raised between 1847 and 1864 under Captain William Jervois, in response to Napoleon III's naval buildup at nearby Cherbourg. Most were obsolete before they were finished. The Germans reused them during the 1940 to 1945 occupation, the only British soil held by Nazi forces, and added concrete bunkers, gun emplacements, and four labour camps. Fort Clonque sits on a tidal causeway and now operates as a Landmark Trust let. The local granite weathers a warm grey-pink against the sea.
The wind off the Alderney Race shapes the island. The Race is a tidal strait between Alderney and Cap de la Hague where the flow can run at ten knots, among the strongest tidal currents in Europe. Above it, on the stacks of Les Etacs and the offshore rock of Ortac, sit about eight thousand pairs of northern gannets, roughly two percent of the world population. They arrive in February and leave by October. The air carries salt, gorse, and the cry of the colony three miles off.