— — the city the sea bends around.
“Thessaloniki curves along the Thermaic Gulf in northern Greece, the waterfront promenade running from the harbour past the White Tower to the new concert hall. Mount Olympus shows across the water on clear winter mornings. The old upper town climbs to Byzantine walls. The coffee is slow, the bougatsa is hot before nine, and the city stays out late.
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Thessaloniki is the second city of Greece, with a population near 815,000, set at the head of the Thermaic Gulf in the region of Macedonia. It was founded in 315 BC by Cassander, king of Macedon, who named it for his wife, the half-sister of Alexander the Great. The city has been Macedonian, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman, and Greek in turn, and the layered streets show all five. Mount Olympus rises across the gulf, fifty miles southwest, snow-capped most of the winter.
The Byzantine and Roman monuments of Thessaloniki are inscribed together on the UNESCO World Heritage list. The Rotunda of Galerius, built around 306 AD as a mausoleum or temple, became a church and later an Ottoman mosque whose minaret still stands. The walls of the upper town date to the fourth century. Hagia Sophia of Thessaloniki, the eighth-century church the Constantinople original was modelled on, holds mosaics from the iconoclastic period. The White Tower on the seafront is Ottoman, around 1430.
Thessaloniki is reached by direct flight to SKG, the airport fifteen kilometres southeast of the city. The waterfront promenade runs roughly four kilometres and is best walked at dusk, when the city comes out and the gulf turns rose-gold. Ladadika, the old olive-oil warehouse quarter, holds the late-night tavernas. The Modiano Market reopened in 2022 after a long restoration. May and October are the easiest months. August is hot and the city half-empties for the islands.