— — the harbour Athens leans on.
“The port city under Athens. Ferries to every island in the Aegean leave from here — Santorini, Crete, Mykonos, Hydra — the cars and the foot passengers and the suitcases all queuing along the quay before dawn. Mikrolimano is the small harbour on the other side, the one with the fish tavernas and the sailboats. The city behind it climbs uphill, sea-coloured.
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The port city of Piraeus sits about 12 kilometres southwest of central Athens, on the Saronic Gulf. It is the largest passenger port in Europe and one of the largest in the world by container traffic. Themistocles fortified its three natural harbours in the early 5th century BCE, replacing the older port of Phaleron and giving Athens its sea power. The modern municipality holds about 163,000 people in its core, more across the wider port area. Metro Line 1 connects it to central Athens in roughly twenty-five minutes.
Piraeus has three natural harbours. The main commercial port, Kantharos, occupies the wide central basin and handles ferries and cruise ships. Zea, also called Pasalimani, is the round inner harbour to the south, ringed with yachts and apartment blocks. Mikrolimano, the smallest, sits east of Zea and keeps a row of fish tavernas along its quay, with sailboats moored against the seawall. The Hellenic Maritime Museum stands on Zea. All three harbours were already in working use in the classical period.
Ferries to the Aegean and the Cyclades leave from numbered gates E1 through E12 along the main harbour. The Archaeological Museum of Piraeus, two streets back from Zea, holds the Piraeus Apollo, a 4th-century BCE bronze recovered from the harbour in 1959, along with classical funerary reliefs. Metro Line 1 from central Athens reaches the port in about twenty-five minutes; the Line 3 extension opened in 2022 and now runs through to the airport. Most long-distance ferries depart in the early morning.