— the island the goddess came up from.
“A small Greek island off the south tip of the Peloponnese, where the Ionian and Aegean meet. Kythira is the mythological birthplace of Aphrodite, said to have risen from the sea foam offshore. The Venetians held it for four centuries and left a castle above the harbour town of Chora. There are stone-paved villages, a long waterfall in Mylopotamos, and quiet beaches the mainland never finds.
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Kythira lies off the southeastern tip of the Peloponnese, in the strait between the Ionian and Aegean seas. The island covers about 280 square kilometres and has a permanent population of roughly 3,600, rising in summer. Administratively it belongs to the Islands regional unit of Attica, though it sits closer to the Laconian mainland. The capital, Chora, holds the Venetian Kastro above the harbour of Kapsali. Antoine Watteau's 1717 painting Pilgrimage to Cythera made the island a touchstone of European Romantic landscape.
The Venetian Kastro at Chora stands on a rock spur above Kapsali bay, built between the 13th and 16th centuries during four centuries of Venetian rule under the Stato da Mar. Its walls hold a small Orthodox church, a magazine, and the foundations of the old Venetian governor's residence. Below, in the village of Mylopotamos, the Neraida waterfall drops about 20 metres into a pool surrounded by old stone watermill ruins. The whole island is built in undressed limestone.
Greek tradition holds that Aphrodite rose from the sea foam off Kythira and stepped ashore here before continuing to Cyprus; Hesiod's Theogony, composed around 700 BCE, names Kythira first. The island gives the goddess one of her epithets, Kythereia. Antoine Watteau's 1717 painting L'Embarquement pour Cythere, now in the Louvre, fixed Kythira in the European imagination as the island of love and gentle pilgrimage, though the historical island has nothing of fete-galante about it.