— — an island that keeps its own hours.
“A long, narrow island in the eastern Aegean, west of Samos, named for the boy who fell from the sky nearby. The spine of Mount Atheras runs the length of it and the villages cling to the slopes above small harbours like Armenistis and Evdilos. Icaria is one of the five Blue Zones where people live unusually long lives. Shops open late. Dinners run later. The clock on the wall is mostly a suggestion.
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Icaria, in modern Greek Ikaria, is an island of roughly 255 square kilometres in the eastern Aegean, about 19 kilometres west of Samos. It belongs to the North Aegean region and to the Icaria regional unit. The 2021 census recorded a resident population of about 8,400, spread across small villages on the slopes of Mount Atheras, which rises to 1,037 metres above the sea. The main port is Agios Kirykos, and the second harbour Evdilos lies on the north coast.
Icaria is one of the five places identified by the Blue Zones project as having unusually high rates of healthy longevity. National Geographic and the demographer Michel Poulain helped define the zone in the late 2000s. Summer panigyria, the all-night village feasts tied to saints' days, run through July and August in mountain villages like Christos Raches and Karavostamo. The famous Raches shops, which open in the evening and close around dawn, are real and still trade on the village square.
Therma, just east of Agios Kirykos, takes its name from the radon-bearing hot springs that have drawn bathers since antiquity. The Strabo and Roman-era baths are still in partial use today through a small modern spa. The north coast around Armenistis holds the long sand beach of Livadi and the smaller bay of Nas at the mouth of the Halaris gorge, where a temple to Artemis Tauropolos stood in the classical period. The water around the island is deep and clean, and the wind picks up most afternoons.