— — a harbour built four times, still working.
“Heraklion is the working capital of Crete: a Venetian harbour with the Koules fortress at its mouth, a tangle of old streets behind, and the long line of the sea wall holding it together. Knossos lies a short bus ride south, where the Minoan palace floors still show their red plaster. The Aegean light here is hard and clean at midday and turns honey-coloured in the last hour. Ferries arrive from Piraeus overnight. from the studio
Each tile is finished by hand in our Knoxville studio. Artwork is slowly infused into the ceramic surface under high heat and pressure, and rests beneath a thin glossy finish. The colour lives in the surface, not on top of it.
Pick any four 4-inch tiles — National Parks you've been to, a Smokies set, the four seasons of one place. $ for a set of , cork-backed, ready to live on the table.
Heraklion is the largest city on Crete and the fourth-largest in Greece, with a metropolitan population of around 211,000 on the island's north coast. The old town sits behind a four-kilometre Venetian wall, one of the longest surviving in the Mediterranean, raised over the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. The Koules sea fortress guards the inner harbour. The city is the gateway to the Minoan site of Knossos, about five kilometres inland, and the Heraklion Archaeological Museum holds the largest collection of Minoan art in the world.
The Venetian walls and the Koules fortress, finished in 1540, are built from the local pale limestone that takes the sun without burning out. Knossos, excavated by Arthur Evans from 1900, preserves the Bronze Age palace whose red columns and dolphin frescoes shaped how the world pictures Minoan Crete. The old harbour still holds working fishing boats beside the cruise traffic. The contrast between the soft yellow stone of the walls and the deep Aegean blue is the colour pairing the painting reaches for.
The Cretan light is famously direct. Midday in July is hard and white; the painters who lived here — El Greco was born in nearby Fodele around 1541 — pushed against it by working with deep shadow. The hour before sunset turns the limestone honey and softens the sea to a quieter blue. Heraklion sits at about 35 degrees north, closer to Tobruk than to Athens, which is why the summer day stretches long and the winters stay mild. Ferries from Piraeus take roughly nine hours overnight.