— the island the tide cannot quite decide.
“The second-largest Greek island, running 180 kilometres along the eastern flank of the mainland and joined to it at Chalcis by a bridge over a strait sixty metres wide. The Euripus current reverses direction several times a day and confounded Aristotle, who died on the island in 322 BC. Mount Dirfys rises to 1,743 metres at the centre; the spa town of Edipsos has been working its hot springs since antiquity.
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Euboea (modern Greek Evia) is the second-largest of the Greek islands after Crete, stretching roughly 180 kilometres along the eastern coast of mainland Greece and separated from Boeotia by the Euripus Strait. The island covers about 3,670 square kilometres and supports a population of around 210,000, concentrated in the capital Chalcis on the western shore. The terrain rises sharply inland: Mount Dirfys, the highest point, reaches 1,743 metres, and the northern half is forested. Politically the island belongs to the region of Central Greece.
The Euripus Strait, separating Chalcis from the mainland, narrows to about 40 metres and runs a tidal current that reverses direction several times a day. The pattern alternates between regular semi-diurnal flow and a chaotic regime of as many as fourteen reversals in 24 hours, depending on the lunar cycle. Aristotle wrote about the current and is said to have died on the island in 322 BC while still puzzling over its behaviour. A sliding bridge has joined Chalcis to the mainland since 1962, replacing earlier wooden spans.
Chalcis (Chalkida) has been continuously inhabited since at least the Bronze Age and gave its name to the chalcidian alphabet that influenced the Latin script. The city was a power in the eighth century BC and founded colonies as far as Sicily and the Chalkidiki peninsula. The medieval Karababa Fortress, built by the Ottomans in 1684 above the old town, guards the strait from the mainland side. Further south, the ancient site of Eretria, once Chalcis's rival, preserves a fifth-century BC theatre and the foundations of a small Temple of Apollo.