— — the gold the earth held back.
“The ancient first capital of the kingdom of Macedon, now the village of Vergina in Imathia. The royal tombs were uncovered in 1977; one held the bones and gold larnax of Philip II, father of Alexander. The mound above them is grassed over, the museum sunk beneath the slope. Cicadas in the summer heat, olive trees down to the plain.
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Aigai sits at the foot of the Pierian mountains in Imathia, northern Greece, near the modern village of Vergina. It served as the first capital of the kingdom of Macedon from roughly the seventh century BC and remained the burial place of its kings even after the capital moved to Pella. The site spreads across more than 1,400 hectares of palace, theatre and necropolis and was inscribed by UNESCO in 1996. The royal palace, the theatre where Philip II was assassinated in 336 BC, and more than 500 burial tumuli sit within walking distance.
The Great Tumulus at Aigai covers four royal tombs cut into the earth beneath an artificial mound about thirteen metres high. Tomb II, opened by Manolis Andronikos in 1977, held a gold larnax stamped with the sixteen-rayed Vergina Sun and the cremated bones now widely identified as those of Philip II. The painted facade still carries its hunt scene. The marble doors, the iron and gold panoply, and the ivory portrait heads of Philip and Alexander all sit in the underground museum directly beneath the mound.
The Royal Tombs Museum at Vergina is generally open eight in the morning to eight in the evening from April through October and shorter hours through winter. The site is about seventy-five kilometres west of Thessaloniki, reachable by car or a regional bus through Veria. The Polycentric Museum of Aigai, opened in 2022, sits a short walk from the tombs and holds the palace finds. Photography inside the burial chambers is not allowed. A single combined ticket covers both the tombs and the palace.