— — a city built on hot water.
“The capital of Hesse, about forty kilometres west of Frankfurt, set where the Taunus hills meet the Rhine. Twenty-six hot springs rise under the old town, and the city has been built around them since Roman garrisons first bathed at the Kochbrunnen. The Kurhaus on Wilhelmstrasse anchors the spa quarter, with its lawns running down to the colonnade. Above the town the Neroberg vineyard climbs to the gold-domed Russian chapel.
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Wiesbaden is the capital of the German state of Hesse, set on the right bank of the Rhine at the southern foot of the Taunus range. The city sits opposite Mainz across the river and about forty kilometres west of Frankfurt. Its population is roughly 290,000, which makes it the second-largest city in Hesse after Frankfurt. The Roman garrison Aquae Mattiacorum was founded here in the first century for the hot springs, and the modern city has continued to grow around the same twenty-six thermal sources rising under the old town.
Twenty-six hot springs feed the city, ranging from forty-six to sixty-six degrees Celsius and carrying a strong sodium-chloride content. The Kochbrunnen at the centre of the spa quarter is the most visible. A small octagonal pavilion stands over the spring on Kochbrunnenplatz, and the water steams in the open air even on warm afternoons. The Kaiser-Friedrich-Therme, a few streets away, has used the same water since 1913 in a tiled Jugendstil bathhouse. The Roman name for the place, Aquae Mattiacorum, names the water before the city.
The Kurhaus on Wilhelmstrasse, designed by Friedrich von Thiersch and opened in 1907, anchors the spa quarter with a long Ionic colonnade and a domed central hall. Its lawns, the Bowling Green, run down to the twin colonnades that frame the front of the building. Above town on the Neroberg, the gold-domed Russian Orthodox Church of Saint Elizabeth was completed in 1855 by Duke Adolph of Nassau for his young Russian wife. The vineyard below the church is one of the few inside city limits in Germany.