— — the long thin island the wind keeps shaping.
“Sylt is the long thin island off Germany's north coast, reached by a single causeway across the Wadden Sea. Forty kilometres of dunes and red cliff and thatched roofs, the open North Sea on one side and the tidal flats on the other. Westerland for the town, Kampen for the dunes, List for the oysters and the northernmost point in Germany. The wind never quite stops; the light comes in slant and grey-blue, and the long beach holds it like a second sky.
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Sylt is the largest of the North Frisian Islands, about 40 kilometres long and as narrow as 320 metres at its waist. It lies in the North Sea off the coast of Schleswig-Holstein, near the Danish border, and is reached from the mainland only by the Hindenburgdamm, an 11-kilometre railway causeway opened in 1927. The island's western shore is open Atlantic-fed North Sea; the eastern shore faces the Wadden Sea, a UNESCO World Heritage tidal flat shared with Denmark and the Netherlands.
Sylt's western beach runs almost unbroken for 40 kilometres, backed by dunes that rise to about 30 metres and by the Rote Kliff at Kampen, a red-brown bluff of glacial moraine that gives the island its signature postcard. The prevailing wind is westerly off the open North Sea, salt-heavy and steady, which is why the island's older houses sit low under thick thatched reed roofs. The combination of sea air, fine sand and bright diffuse light gave Sylt its early reputation as a Nordseeheilbad, a sea-air health resort.
The principal town is Westerland on the west coast, which has the train station, the long promenade and most of the hotels. Kampen, a few kilometres north, is the older village with the thatched cottages and the cliff. List, at the northern tip, is the northernmost municipality in Germany and the home of the Sylter Royal oyster, the only German oyster farmed commercially. The Hindenburgdamm carries the Sylt Shuttle car-train and the regular rail service; there is no road bridge from the mainland.