— the long nave the emperors walked toward.
“A red-sandstone cathedral on the west bank of the Rhine, begun by Conrad II in 1030 and finished under his grandson Henry IV. The largest Romanesque church still standing, and the burial place of eight Salian and Hohenstaufen kings and emperors. The nave reads as a single quiet length of arches; the crypt below holds the rulers underground.
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Speyer Cathedral sits on the west bank of the Rhine in Rhineland-Palatinate, about 25 kilometres south of Mannheim. Conrad II laid the foundation stone in 1030; his grandson Henry IV completed the rebuild in 1106. The basilica is 134 metres long, with twin towers at each end and a vaulted crypt of sandstone bays beneath the choir. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1981, the cathedral remains the largest surviving Romanesque church in Europe and the burial place of eight medieval German kings and emperors.
The cathedral is built from the rose-red Pfälzer Buntsandstein quarried in the Palatinate hills west of the city. The stone weathers slowly to a deep pink that holds the light at sunset against the Rhine plain. The west front was reconstructed in the 1850s by Heinrich Hübsch after the French revolutionary army gutted the interior in 1689 and again in 1794. The current stone matches the original within a few shades; in raking light the joins remain visible. The crypt below the choir holds 215 columns of the same sandstone, almost untouched since the eleventh century.
The cathedral is open to visitors every day, with services taking precedence on Sundays and feast days. Entry to the nave is free; the crypt and the imperial tomb chamber require a small ticket. The south-west tower can be climbed for a view across the Rhine into Baden-Württemberg, about 304 steps from the floor to the platform. The Domnapf, a large stone basin at the west portal, once marked the boundary of episcopal jurisdiction; new bishops filled it with wine for the townspeople on installation day.