— — the city the river runs cold through.
“The Bavarian capital sits on the Isar where the river runs grey-green from the Alps. Marienplatz holds the centre, the Frauenkirche's twin onion domes visible from most of the old streets. The Englischer Garten runs four kilometres along the river, longer than Central Park. In late September the Theresienwiese fills with the Oktoberfest tents. The rest of the year the city keeps its own quieter rhythm.
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Munich sits on the Isar river in southern Bavaria, about 50 kilometres north of the foothills of the Alps and 100 kilometres from the Austrian border. The city was founded in 1158 by Henry the Lion, who moved a salt-route bridge upriver to redirect tolls. The Frauenkirche, the late-Gothic cathedral completed in 1488, anchors the old town with its 99-metre twin towers; municipal code forbids new buildings in the inner city from rising above them. Population sits near 1.5 million.
The Isar drains the Karwendel range in the Austrian Alps and runs 295 kilometres north to the Danube. Through Munich the river carries glacial silt that turns the water pale grey-green in summer and clear in winter. The Englischer Garten, opened to the public in 1789, follows the river for 3.7 kilometres and holds a standing wave at the Eisbach where surfers ride through every season. The river was renaturalised between 2000 and 2011, with concrete weirs removed and gravel banks restored.
Bavaria runs a continental climate with cold winters and warm summers. January averages just below freezing; July averages 19°C. Oktoberfest runs sixteen to eighteen days from mid-September to the first Sunday in October on the Theresienwiese, drawing six million visitors and serving beer from six Munich breweries. The Christkindlmarkt opens late November on Marienplatz, with wooden stalls under the New Town Hall's neo-Gothic facade and its 43-bell carillon, which performs three times daily.