— — the city where the Wall came down first.
“A book city, a music city, a quietly revolutionary city. Bach worked at the Thomaskirche for twenty-seven years and is buried under the altar. Two and a half centuries later, the Monday prayer meetings at the Nikolaikirche grew to seventy thousand in October 1989 and helped end East Germany without a shot fired. The trade fair grounds still draw the book world every spring. The trams run quiet. The cafés stay late.
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Leipzig sits on the North German Plain in the state of Saxony, at the confluence of the White Elster, the Pleisse, and the Parthe rivers. With roughly 620,000 residents it is the most populous city in Saxony, slightly ahead of Dresden. The historic centre is unusually compact, bound by a ring road that traces the medieval walls. Leipzig is the country's oldest continuously operating trade-fair city, granted the imperial fair privilege by Emperor Maximilian I in 1497, and remains a major book-fair and exhibition hub today.
Johann Sebastian Bach served as cantor at the Thomaskirche from 1723 until his death in 1750, composing most of his church works in those twenty-seven years, including the St Matthew Passion. His remains rest beneath the altar of the church. The Thomanerchor, the boys' choir attached to the church, was founded in 1212 and still performs Bach motets on Friday evenings. Felix Mendelssohn rediscovered the St Matthew Passion in 1829 and later directed the Gewandhaus Orchestra, the same orchestra still resident in the city today.
The Monday prayer meetings at the Nikolaikirche began as small gatherings in 1982 and grew through the 1980s into peaceful demonstrations against the East German regime. On 9 October 1989, roughly seventy thousand people walked from the church around the inner ring with candles, expecting violence that did not come. The march broke the regime's nerve; the Berlin Wall fell exactly one month later. The church remains open daily and carries a plaque in the entryway acknowledging the peaceful revolution.