— — a red rock the sea keeps cutting back to.
“A small archipelago of red sandstone standing alone in the North Sea, two islands across a narrow strait: the Hauptinsel with its cliffs and the lower sand-spit of Düne. About thirteen hundred people live on the main island, in a row of painted houses called the Lobster Shacks, behind a working harbour. The cliff stack at the north end, Lange Anna, rises forty-seven metres from the water and is the picture the island is known for. The wind here is constant, the air carries no industrial dust, and the customs status is duty-free.
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Heligoland — Helgoland in German — is a small archipelago of two islands in the German Bight of the North Sea, roughly seventy kilometres off the mouth of the Elbe. The main island, Hauptinsel, is about one square kilometre and reaches 61 metres at the high plateau called the Oberland; the lower spit of Düne sits a few hundred metres east across a sandy strait. The population is around 1,300. The islands were British from 1807 until they were transferred to Germany in the 1890 Heligoland-Zanzibar Treaty.
The cliffs that define the island are Buntsandstein, a deep brick-red sandstone laid down in the Triassic. The most photographed feature is Lange Anna, a free-standing sea stack at the northern end of the Oberland, separated from the main cliff in 1860 and rising about 47 metres from the water. After the Second World War the British detonated 6,700 tonnes of leftover munitions on the island on 18 April 1947 in Operation Big Bang, then one of the largest non-nuclear explosions on record. The Mittelland plateau on the south end carries that scar.
Access is by ferry from Cuxhaven, Hamburg, or Büsum on the German coast, generally a two to four hour crossing depending on the boat. There is no car traffic on the island; arrivals walk off the pier into Unterland and take a stair-lift or a long flight of steps up to the Oberland. The island is duty-free, a vestige of its earlier customs status, and the small shops along the Lung Wai are part of why day-trippers come. The seabird colony on the cliffs is busiest May through July and includes the only mainland-German nesting population of northern gannets.