— — the city that taught itself baroque again.
“Dresden sits on a long bend of the Elbe in eastern Saxony, the old city's sandstone domes and copper roofs on the south bank, the Neustadt across the river. The Frauenkirche, levelled in February 1945 and rebuilt stone by stone over a decade, was reconsecrated in 2005. The blackened original stones, fitted back among new sandstone, read as darker patches across the rebuilt facade.
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Dresden is the capital of the Free State of Saxony, on a long curve of the Elbe River about 120 kilometres south of Berlin. The population is around 560,000. The city was the seat of the Electors and Kings of Saxony from the fifteenth century, and the baroque rebuilding under Augustus the Strong in the early eighteenth century gave it the nickname Florence on the Elbe. The Allied firebombing of 13–15 February 1945 destroyed the historic centre. Reconstruction stretched across the next sixty years.
The Frauenkirche, the Zwinger, and the Semperoper are all built from Elbe sandstone quarried at Pirna, twenty kilometres upriver. The stone is a warm cream when freshly cut and darkens over decades to the near-black patina that survives in the Frauenkirche's salvaged stones. About 3,800 original blocks were recovered from the rubble after 1945, catalogued, and refitted during the 1994–2005 reconstruction, which used the same Pirna quarries for the replacement stone. The contrast remains visible from the Neumarkt.
The Altstadt, the old town on the south bank, can be walked in an afternoon. The Frauenkirche is free to enter outside of services; the dome viewing platform charges a small admission. The Zwinger Palace, completed in 1728, houses the Old Masters Picture Gallery and Raphael's Sistine Madonna. The Semperoper, designed by Gottfried Semper and rebuilt in 1985, still functions as Dresden's opera house. Most visitors reach the city by Deutsche Bahn from Berlin or Prague in about two hours.