— — a robe kept under a pillar that wept.
“The cathedral at the heart of Mtskheta, the old royal capital of Georgia. Built in dressed sandstone between 1010 and 1029 by the architect Arsukisdze, on the spot where, by tradition, the seamless robe of Christ was buried. Coronations happened here. Kings are buried beneath the floor. The Mtkvari runs past the south wall, and the hill of Jvari rises across the water. from the studio
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Svetitskhoveli stands in Mtskheta, the ancient capital of the Kingdom of Iberia, at the confluence of the Aragvi and the Mtkvari rivers about 20 kilometres north-west of Tbilisi. The present cathedral, completed in 1029 under King Giorgi I, replaced a fourth-century basilica on the same ground. The site is part of the Historical Monuments of Mtskheta, inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1994. It remains the seat of the Catholicos-Patriarch of All Georgia and the mother church of the Georgian Orthodox tradition.
The cathedral is built of dressed yellow-grey sandstone, cruciform in plan, crowned by a tall central dome on a sixteen-window drum. The architect Arsukisdze signed his work on the north façade beneath a carved relief of a hand holding a bevel. Inside, the lower courses of the earlier fourth-century church remain visible, and a small stone canopy marks the burial place of the robe. Frescoes from the seventeenth century, restored across the past two decades, cover the apse and the dome.
Mtskheta sits a short marshrutka or taxi ride north of Tbilisi along the Georgian Military Highway. The cathedral is open daily for worship and visitors; entry is free and modest dress is required, with women's headscarves provided at the gate. The fortified walls around the courtyard and the small bell tower belong to a sixteenth-century rebuilding under Catholicos-Patriarch Melkhisedek I. Jvari Monastery on the ridge opposite, from the late sixth century, frames the classic view across the river.