— — an old capital the river still runs through.
“The Rioni cuts a green seam through the middle of Kutaisi, fast and loud where it drops past the old chain bridge. Above the city, on its hill, the rebuilt Bagrati Cathedral catches the late sun. East in the hills, Gelati keeps its eleventh-century walls and the bones of King David the Builder. A small old capital that has done this for a very long time.
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Kutaisi is the third-largest city in Georgia and the historic capital of the Imereti region, set astride the Rioni River where the river leaves the Caucasus foothills for the Colchian plain. It served as the capital of the Kingdom of Colchis in antiquity and, later, the capital of the Kingdom of Georgia from 1008 to 1122. The David the Builder Kutaisi International Airport, about 14 kilometres west, has made it a common Caucasus entry point.
Two great medieval works anchor the city. Bagrati Cathedral, consecrated in 1003 under King Bagrat III, crowns Ukimerioni Hill above the river; its long restoration completed in 2012 cost it the UNESCO listing it once shared with Gelati. Gelati Monastery, about 10 kilometres northeast and founded by David IV in 1106, still holds its World Heritage status and the tomb of its founder beneath the south gate.
Most visitors fly into Kutaisi International on low-cost routes from across Europe and use the city as the base for Imereti. Bagrati and the old town sit a steep but walkable hill apart; Gelati needs a taxi or marshrutka. Prometheus Cave and the Sataplia dinosaur-footprint reserve are both within a 30-kilometre drive. Late spring and early autumn are kindest; July afternoons in the Rioni valley hold above 30 degrees Celsius.