— — the white the rain keeps making whiter.
“The basilica that grew out of the limestone of Montmartre, white because the stone bleaches itself every time it rains. Below it the rooftops of Paris fall away in slate and zinc. Buskers on the front steps, a funicular grinding up the side, and the dome holding the highest view in the city without saying much about it.
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Sacré-Cœur sits on the summit of Montmartre, about 130 metres above the Seine, the highest natural point in Paris. The basilica was begun in 1875 to a Romano-Byzantine design by Paul Abadie and was consecrated in 1919, after construction continued under five architects. It is built from Château-Landon travertine quarried in Seine-et-Marne, southeast of the city. Entry to the nave is free; the climb to the dome is a separate ticket of about ten euros.
The travertine of Château-Landon is the quiet engineer of the building. Quarried about a hundred kilometres southeast of Paris in Seine-et-Marne, it carries calcite that washes to the surface with each rainfall and re-cements as a chalky bloom. Most Parisian limestone darkens with the soot of two centuries; this one brightens. Paul Abadie chose it deliberately after the same stone had proved itself on the Conciergerie. The walls have grown paler since the cornerstone was laid in 1875.
The basilica opens daily from 6:30 in the morning until 10:30 at night, with free entry to the nave; the dome and the crypt are ticketed separately at around ten euros for the climb. The Montmartre funicular from Place Saint-Pierre runs every few minutes on a standard Métro ticket. Photographers favour the first hour after sunrise, when the city below is still in shadow and the white façade catches the light from the east. Modest dress is asked of visitors in the sanctuary.