— — the city the kings came to be made kings.
“The cathedral was where French kings became kings: twenty-five coronations between 1223 and 1825. The city sits on the river Vesle, in the Marne, surrounded by the chalk-and-clay slopes that grow Champagne. Shelled in 1914 and rebuilt slowly through the twentieth century, Reims today walks at its own quiet pace. Most visitors arrive for one or the other (the cathedral or the cellars) and stay longer than they planned.
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Reims sits in the Marne department of the Grand Est region, about 130 kilometers east-northeast of Paris and reachable in 45 minutes by TGV from Gare de l'Est. The city of roughly 180,000 lies on the river Vesle and is the largest in the Champagne wine region. The surrounding hillsides, known as the Montagne de Reims, were inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage list in 2015 as part of the Champagne hillsides, houses, and cellars site. Reims and Épernay form the trade's two historic capitals.
Notre-Dame de Reims, begun in 1211 on the site of an earlier basilica destroyed by fire, is one of the great High Gothic cathedrals of France. Twenty-five French kings were crowned here between Louis VIII in 1223 and Charles X in 1825; Clovis is traditionally said to have been baptized on the site around 496. The west façade carries roughly 2,300 sculpted figures, including the smiling angel of the central portal. The cathedral was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1991.
The cathedral is open daily and free to enter, with an admission charge to climb the towers between March and November. The Palace of Tau next door, the former archbishop's residence and coronation feast hall, houses the cathedral's treasury. Champagne house tours beneath central Reims at Taittinger, Veuve Clicquot, Pommery, and Ruinart book up weeks in advance and most require reservations. Épernay's Avenue de Champagne, a short drive south, holds more houses. The Champagne-Ardenne TGV station puts central Paris within easy reach.