
— — a fortress with a court inside.
“The largest Gothic palace in Europe sits on a rock above the Rhône. Seven popes ruled from Avignon in the fourteenth century, after the papal court moved from Rome and stayed for nearly seventy years. The limestone catches the afternoon light and holds it. Every July the Festival d'Avignon opens with a play in the Cour d'Honneur, the same courtyard Clement VI received cardinals in. People come for the festival and stay for the palace, or arrive for the palace and find themselves at the theatre.

Each tile is finished by hand in our Knoxville studio. Artwork is slowly infused into the ceramic surface under high heat and pressure, and rests beneath a thin glossy finish. The colour lives in the surface, not on top of it.
Pick any four 4-inch tiles — National Parks you've been to, a Smokies set, the four seasons of one place. $ for a set of , cork-backed, ready to live on the table.
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The Palais des Papes stands on the Rocher des Doms in Avignon, a rocky outcrop above the Rhône in southern France. The palace covers roughly 15,000 square metres, which makes it one of the largest Gothic buildings in Europe. It was built in two main phases: the Palais Vieux begun by Pope Benedict XII in 1335, and the Palais Neuf by Clement VI from 1342. Seven popes ruled from Avignon between 1309 and 1377, the period historians call the Avignon Papacy. UNESCO listed the historic centre of Avignon, including the palace and the Pont Saint-Bénézet, as a World Heritage Site in 1995. The TGV from Paris reaches Avignon in about two hours and forty minutes.
The palace is built of pale local limestone, with walls several metres thick at the base. The Palais Vieux, built under Benedict XII, has the austere lines of a Cistercian abbey. Benedict had been a monk of that order. Clement VI's Palais Neuf added a different register: a vaulted Grande Audience, the Chapelle Clémentine, and frescoes by Matteo Giovannetti in the Chambre du Cerf showing hunting and fishing scenes. The fortress aspect was not for show. The fourteenth century brought plague, mercenary companies, and an increasingly bitter dispute over where the papacy belonged. The palace was built to hold all of it.
Every July since 1947, the Festival d'Avignon turns the Cour d'Honneur into the largest open-air theatre in France. Jean Vilar founded it that summer with a performance of Shakespeare's Richard II for a few hundred people. The festival now runs about three weeks, draws more than 100,000 spectators, and spreads across dozens of stages in the city, with the Cour d'Honneur of the palace at its centre. Avignon's summer is hot and dry; the mistral wind blows down the Rhône valley most days and keeps the night air moving. Visit the palace in May or September and you will have it largely to yourself; visit in July and you will share it with the festival.