— — the Madonna the city looks up to.
“The Marseillais call her la Bonne Mère, the Good Mother. From a limestone peak south of the Vieux-Port she has watched the Mediterranean for a century and a half, the gilded Virgin on the bell tower visible from every approach to the city by sea. Sailors used to leave model ships at her feet. They still do.
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Notre-Dame de la Garde stands on the highest natural point of Marseille, a 149-metre limestone outcrop south of the Vieux-Port. The current basilica, designed by Henri-Jacques Espérandieu in the Romano-Byzantine style, was consecrated in 1864 and replaced a sixteenth-century chapel that had itself replaced a thirteenth-century watch-shrine. The basilica is built of white limestone from the Cassis quarries and green-and-white stone from Florence, with a 41-metre bell tower crowned by an 11.2-metre gilded copper statue of the Virgin and Child.
Espérandieu specified two principal stones for the layered exterior: a white Cassis limestone from the Calanques and a green Florentine serpentine, banded in horizontal courses that read clearly from the harbour below. The interior carries Byzantine-inspired mosaic floors and a vaulted nave restored after fire damage in 1944 and a comprehensive cleaning completed in 2008. The bell tower above the crypt holds the bourdon Marie-Joséphine, cast in 1845 and weighing 8,234 kilograms. The hill itself is karstic limestone, the same formation that defines the Calanques south of the city.
Entrance to the basilica is free, every day from seven in the morning to seven in the evening. The site is reached on foot from the Vieux-Port by a thirty-minute climb up Rue Cherchel and the Jardin du Pharo road, or by bus 60 from Cours Jean Ballard, which terminates at the basilica forecourt. The small Crypt Museum, opened in 2013, houses the votive offerings left by mariners across two centuries. The exterior viewing terrace gives the most complete panorama of the Frioul archipelago and the Calanques.