— — a southern city that walks at its own pace.
“Montpellier sits in the south of France, about ten kilometres from the Mediterranean. The old centre, the Écusson, is a tangle of narrow stone streets and small squares that empties into the Place de la Comédie. The city has one of the oldest medical schools in Europe and a young, walking population that keeps the cafés open late into the evening.
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Montpellier is the capital of the Hérault département in the Occitanie region of southern France, about 10 kilometres inland from the Mediterranean coast. The city sits on the river Lez and has a population of around 300,000, making it the seventh largest in France. It was founded in 985 AD, comparatively late among French cities, and grew quickly on trade between Italy, Spain, and the Levant. The medieval core, called the Écusson for its shield-like outline, is largely pedestrian and bounded by the line of the old ramparts.
Montpellier sits at the latitude of the northern Mediterranean coast, and the light reads that way: long afternoons, a sun that takes its time setting over the Pic Saint-Loup to the north. From May through September the city averages more than nine hours of sun a day, and the limestone of the older buildings holds the warmth into the evening. The Place de la Comédie, paved in white marble, is the place to watch the light go pink against the Opéra Comédie.
The walkable centre rewards a slow day. Begin at the Place de la Comédie, walk north into the Écusson, find the Place Saint-Roch and the small streets around the cathedral of Saint-Pierre, whose twin pillars hold up a Gothic porch. The Faculty of Medicine, founded in 1289 and the oldest in continuous operation in the western world, sits a short walk further. End at the Promenade du Peyrou, a high terrace finished in 1690 that frames a view south toward the Mediterranean on a clear afternoon.