— — the islands Gauguin came to die in.
“Among the most remote inhabited islands on earth, 1,400 kilometres northeast of Tahiti and 4,800 kilometres from the nearest continent. Twelve volcanic islands, six of them inhabited, with no coral reef to break the swell. Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa hold most of the population. Gauguin is buried in Atuona above the bay he painted from. The wind comes off the open Pacific and the cliffs fall straight into it.
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The Marquesas Islands are a volcanic archipelago in French Polynesia, lying roughly 1,400 kilometres northeast of Tahiti at about nine degrees south of the equator. Twelve islands make up the group; six are inhabited, with Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa holding the largest populations. The total land area is about 1,050 square kilometres and the population is roughly 9,300. Unlike most of French Polynesia, the islands have no fringing coral reef, so the cliffs drop straight into the open ocean and the swell runs hard against them.
The Marquesas are among the most isolated inhabited places on earth. The nearest continent, South America, is roughly 4,800 kilometres east. There is no industrial shipping lane through the group and no commercial flight path overhead. Paul Gauguin moved to Atuona on Hiva Oa in 1901 and is buried in the Calvary Cemetery above the bay. Herman Melville deserted ship into the Taipivai valley on Nuku Hiva in 1842 and wrote his first book about it. The islands hold what brings people to them.
Reaching the Marquesas takes effort. Air Tahiti flies daily from Papeete to Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa; the flight is about three and a half hours each way. The Aranui 5, a mixed cargo and passenger ship, runs a twelve-day round trip from Tahiti several times a year. On the islands, roads are limited and 4x4 transfers are standard. The main cultural event is the Matava'a o te Henua 'Enana, the Marquesan festival held every four years, rotating among the islands.