— — a crater the sea walked into.
“A volcanic island the size of a small village, alone in the southern Indian Ocean between Africa and Australia. Its caldera is breached on one side, so the sea fills it and makes a quiet harbour ringed by red cliffs. No one lives there. A few scientists land each year. The lobsters in the bay are the famous local crawfish that gave the island its only real commerce.
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Île Saint-Paul is a 7-square-kilometre volcanic island in the southern Indian Ocean, about 85 kilometres south of its larger neighbour Île Amsterdam. The two together form one of the five districts of the Terres australes et antarctiques françaises (TAAF), administered from Réunion. The island is the eroded rim of a stratovolcano whose caldera was breached by the sea, leaving a near-circular bay roughly 1 kilometre wide ringed by cliffs. The highest point, Crête de la Novara, reaches 268 metres.
No permanent population lives on Île Saint-Paul, and none has since the failure of a French crawfish-canning settlement in 1930. A short stay by seven workers left behind on the island that summer ended with the deaths of two men and a baby; the survivors were taken off in 1931. Since then the island has been visited only by scientific teams and the occasional naval rotation from the Marion Dufresne, the TAAF supply vessel that calls a few times each year.
There is no tourism on Île Saint-Paul. The island is a French nature reserve within a wider TAAF marine protected area, and landings require a permit from the prefecture in Saint-Pierre, Réunion. The only practical access is aboard the Marion Dufresne on its OP rotations, which carry researchers between Réunion, Crozet, Kerguelen, and Amsterdam-Saint-Paul. Anchorage inside the breached caldera is possible in calm weather but the lagoon is shallow and the bar at its mouth has wrecked more than one vessel.