— — the dune that keeps walking inland.
“The tallest sand dune in Europe, just over 100 metres high above Arcachon Bay on France's Atlantic coast. The Dune of Pilat runs nearly three kilometres from north to south, the ocean on one face and the pine forest of the Landes on the other. The wind off the bay pushes it east by a metre each year. The trees at the foot stand half-buried. The light at the top before sunset goes a colour no photograph holds.
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The Dune of Pilat rises on the south side of the entrance to Arcachon Bay, in the commune of La Teste-de-Buch in Gironde, about 60 kilometres south-west of Bordeaux. It is the tallest sand dune in Europe at around 106 metres above sea level, though the figure shifts year to year as the wind reshapes the crest. The dune stretches about 2.7 kilometres along the coast and roughly 500 metres across. Behind it, the Landes pine forest carries on for kilometres; in front, the Banc d'Arguin shelters one of France's largest oyster grounds.
The dune is a working sand body, not a fixed landmark. Atlantic westerlies off the Bay of Biscay carry sand from the Banc d'Arguin and the beach, and the prevailing wind moves the dune eastward at an average of one to five metres a year, burying the forest at its inland foot. The slope on the ocean side runs at a shallow angle; the inland face holds near the angle of repose at around 33 degrees. On still mornings the sand sings faintly underfoot, a low note from the grain layer settling.
Access is from the parking on the D218 in La Teste-de-Buch, with a wooden staircase of around 160 steps that is rebuilt each spring as the dune migrates. The site is managed by the Syndicat Mixte de la Grande Dune du Pilat. Entry is free, parking carries a seasonal fee, and visitor numbers approach two million a year. Summer brings paragliders launching from the crest; the gentler windows in May, September and early October are quieter on the ridge. The dune is part of the Bassin d'Arcachon protected area.