— the walled town that calls the hyenas in.
“A walled city in eastern Ethiopia, 1,885 metres up on the edge of the highlands, with five gates, eighty-two mosques inside the Jugol wall, and laneways narrow enough to keep two donkeys apart. The wall went up in the sixteenth century. The hyena men feed the wild clans by hand outside the Erer Gate each night, a practice old enough that the hyenas are written into the city's truce with itself. Coffee was first cultivated on these hills.
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Harar sits at 1,885 metres on a spur of the Ethiopian eastern highlands, roughly five hundred kilometres east of Addis Ababa and one hundred kilometres west of the Somali border. The old city, called the Jugol, is enclosed by a defensive wall built in the sixteenth century under Emir Nur ibn Mujahid, pierced by five gates. UNESCO inscribed the Jugol as a World Heritage Site in 2006. The population of the wider city is roughly 130,000; the Jugol itself houses perhaps a tenth of that.
Inside the wall, the Jugol holds eighty-two mosques, three of them dating to the tenth century, and 102 shrines, packed into about a square kilometre of laneways and walled compounds. The traditional Harari house is whitewashed inside, painted in deep red and green, and hung with woven baskets along the walls. The houses turn inward to a central room called the gidir gar, where guests are received. The poet Arthur Rimbaud lived in one of these compounds from 1880 to 1891.
Harar is reached by road from Dire Dawa, fifty-four kilometres north and the nearest airport with daily flights from Addis Ababa. The dry season runs October through May with cool nights at altitude. Five gates open into the Jugol; the most photographed is the Showa Gate on the west. The hyena feeding takes place after dark outside the Erer Gate and the Fallana Gate, with two families that have held the practice for generations.