— — a hill of castles, with a ceiling full of angels.
“Gondar was the seat of the Ethiopian emperors for two centuries, founded in 1636 by Fasilides on a basalt ridge above the headwaters of the Blue Nile. The Royal Enclosure still holds six castles inside one stone wall, each emperor adding his own, the architecture borrowing from Aksumite, Indian, and Portuguese hands. A short walk north of the gates, Debre Berhan Selassie keeps a ceiling of eighty winged faces watching down — the most photographed church interior in the country, and one of the most steady.
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Gondar lies in the Amhara Region of northern Ethiopia, roughly 30 kilometres north of Lake Tana and 750 kilometres north of Addis Ababa. The city sits at about 2,133 metres on the southern edge of the Simien escarpment, with cool highland air and a clear two-season climate. Emperor Fasilides founded Gondar as the imperial capital in 1636, and it remained the seat of government until the mid-19th century. UNESCO inscribed Fasil Ghebbi, the Royal Enclosure, on the World Heritage list in 1979.
Fasil Ghebbi is a 7-hectare walled compound holding six castles and several smaller buildings, raised by successive emperors between 1636 and the early 18th century. Fasilides' Castle, the oldest, is a square three-storey tower in basalt and lime mortar with crenellated parapets and four corner domes. The architecture blends Aksumite stoneworking with Hindu and Portuguese motifs introduced by Indian masons and Jesuit missions present in the prior century. A short distance outside the city, Fasilides' Bath is still filled once a year for the Timkat baptismal festival in January.
Debre Berhan Selassie, the Church of the Trinity at the Mountain of Light, sits on a low hill north of the Royal Enclosure. Commissioned by Emperor Iyasu II in the mid-18th century, it is one of the few Gondarine churches to survive the Mahdist raid of 1888, which local tradition credits to a swarm of bees driving the attackers off. The roof beams are painted with rows of cherubic winged faces — about 80 of them on the ceiling, with scenes from the life of Christ on the walls — among the most documented church paintings in Ethiopia.