— — the water that becomes a river that becomes Egypt.
“The Amhara city where the Blue Nile leaves Lake Tana and starts its long walk to Khartoum and Cairo. Papyrus tankwas still cross to the island monasteries at dawn, the jacarandas along the lakeside avenue come into colour in October, and the falls at Tis Issat thirty kilometres south carry the lake's full weight over the basalt step.
Each tile is finished by hand in our Knoxville studio. Artwork is slowly infused into the ceramic surface under high heat and pressure, and rests beneath a thin glossy finish. The colour lives in the surface, not on top of it.
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Bahir Dar is the capital of Ethiopia's Amhara Region, set on the southern shore of Lake Tana at an elevation of about 1,820 metres. The 2007 census recorded a population of roughly 221,000; current estimates put the city well above 350,000. It sits at the point where the Blue Nile, called the Abay in Amharic, leaves Lake Tana on its 1,450-kilometre run to join the White Nile at Khartoum. The city is about 565 kilometres northwest of Addis Ababa by road.
Lake Tana is Ethiopia's largest lake, covering roughly 3,000 square kilometres, and the source of about 85 percent of the Nile's flow during the rainy season. Reed tankwa boats, built from papyrus, still ferry pilgrims and traders across to the island monasteries. Thirty kilometres south of the city, the Blue Nile drops about 45 metres over a basalt step at Tis Issat, the falls the Amharic name calls smoking water. The Chara Chara weir at the lake outlet has reduced the dry-season flow.
Twenty Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo monasteries sit on the islands and peninsulas of Lake Tana, several founded in the fourteenth century. Ura Kidane Mihret on the Zege peninsula and Tana Qirqos on its rocky island are the most visited, and Daga Estifanos holds the remains of several medieval emperors. The interior walls of the round church at Ura Kidane Mihret are painted with scenes from the Ge'ez Bible. Boats from the Bahir Dar marina reach Zege in about thirty minutes; the older crossings take all morning.