— — a medieval town that never quite left the Middle Ages.
“Tallinn keeps a walled Hanseatic old town on a low hill above the Gulf of Finland, almost intact from the thirteenth century. Toompea looks down on red-tile roofs and the spire of St Olaf's, once the tallest building in the world. Helsinki is a two-hour ferry north across the cold water.
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Tallinn is the capital of Estonia, on the southern shore of the Gulf of Finland, about 80 kilometres south of Helsinki across the water. The population is near 460,000. Its medieval Old Town, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, preserves a Hanseatic core of merchant houses, guild halls, and city walls from the thirteenth to sixteenth centuries, divided between the lower town and the upper citadel on Toompea Hill.
The Old Town's defensive walls, begun in the thirteenth century under the Danes and extended through the fifteenth, once carried 46 towers; about 20 remain. St Olaf's Church (Oleviste kirik), measured at 159 metres in the sixteenth century, was probably the tallest building in the world from roughly 1549 to 1625; its present spire stands 124 metres. Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) has held the Gothic Town Hall, completed in 1404, since the early fifteenth century.
Toompea Hill is reached by Pikk jalg or Lühike jalg, the long leg and the short leg, two cobbled lanes that climb from the lower town. The viewing platforms at Kohtuotsa and Patkuli look across the red-tile roofs to St Olaf's and the harbour. The Christmas Market on Raekoja plats, held through December, has stood in the square since 1441, one of the oldest in Europe. The cobbles ice over in January, so soft soles are not the friend they look.