— — the city the river kept feeding for three thousand years.
“The Egyptian city the Greeks called Thebes, now Luxor, strung along both banks of the Nile in the country's south. The east bank holds the living temples: Karnak's hypostyle hall, with its hundred and thirty-four sandstone columns, and the Luxor temple a kilometre south. The west bank holds the dead: the Valley of the Kings, the Valley of the Queens, the terraces of Deir el-Bahari. Feluccas still cross at dusk.
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Thebes is the Greek name for the city the ancient Egyptians called Waset, the capital of Upper Egypt through most of the Middle and New Kingdoms, roughly 2055 to 1077 BCE. Modern Luxor occupies the same ground, with about 500,000 residents along both banks of the Nile in the country's south. UNESCO inscribed Ancient Thebes and its Necropolis in 1979. The Nile here runs roughly north, the temple bank to the east, the necropolis and royal tombs cut into the limestone hills of the west bank.
The Karnak temple complex covers about 200 acres and was built and rebuilt over more than 2,000 years, from the Middle Kingdom through the Ptolemaic era. The hypostyle hall of the Great Temple of Amun holds 134 sandstone columns arranged in 16 rows; the central twelve rise about 21 metres and once supported a stone roof. Ramesses II finished the hall around 1280 BCE, picking up work begun by his father Seti I. Most of the columns still carry traces of the original paint where the desert air has spared them.
Luxor International Airport sits six kilometres east of the centre, with regular service from Cairo and seasonal European charters. Karnak and Luxor Temple sit on the east bank within a single walking afternoon, joined by the partially excavated Avenue of Sphinxes, formally reopened in 2021. The west bank requires a separate trip, usually by taxi from the river crossing: Valley of the Kings, the temple of Hatshepsut at Deir el-Bahari, the Colossi of Memnon. Most sites open at 6 a.m. and close by mid-afternoon in summer.