— — the column the city kept standing.
“What's left above ground is mostly the column: red Aswan granite, twenty-six metres of it, the last great marker of a temple that once held a daughter library of the Great Library. The sphinxes are still there, set lower than they used to be. Around them, the city has grown and grown. The hill of Rhakotis remembers what was built on it.
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The Serapeum sat on Rhakotis, the original Egyptian quarter of Alexandria, founded under Ptolemy III in the late third century BC to house the cult of Serapis, the syncretic god the early Ptolemies built to bridge Greek and Egyptian worship. Strabo described it in the first century BC. The temple complex was destroyed in 391, after an edict of Theodosius I closed pagan sites across the empire. What survives above ground today is Diocletian's column and two granite sphinxes, in the Karmouz district of modern Alexandria.
The standing column is cut from a single shaft of red Aswan granite, twenty-six point eighty-five metres tall, raised in 298 or 302 to honour Diocletian after he put down a revolt in Alexandria. Crusaders later misattributed it to Pompey, and the wrong name stuck. The base sits on older pharaonic blocks reused from earlier temples upriver. Two granite sphinxes, also reused, flank the column. The shaft alone weighs near two hundred and eighty-five tonnes, quarried six hundred miles south and floated down the Nile.
The temple began under Ptolemy III around 246 BC and was rebuilt grander under Ptolemy IV. For six centuries it was one of the principal libraries and cult centres of the Mediterranean world. In 391 a Christian crowd, led by Patriarch Theophilus and emboldened by Theodosius's anti-pagan edict, broke into the precinct and pulled down the cult statue of Serapis. The library annex burned with it. Diocletian's column went up barely ninety years before the destruction, and now outlives everything around it by sixteen hundred years.