— — the oldest amusement park that still knows how to whisper.
“A pleasure garden in the centre of Copenhagen that opened in 1843 and never quite let go of its lanterns. The wooden roller coaster from 1914 still climbs its lift hill on a chain. The Pantomime Theatre still drops its peacock-tail curtain at dusk. Hans Christian Andersen walked here. Walt Disney walked here. By night the trees fill with small electric stars and the lake reflects them back. from the studio
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Tivoli Gardens sits in central Copenhagen between City Hall Square and the central railway station, occupying about 8.3 hectares inside the old western ramparts of the city. It opened on 15 August 1843, founded by Georg Carstensen under a five-year royal charter from King Christian VIII. After Bakken north of the city, it is the second-oldest operating amusement park in the world, and it remains one of the most visited tourist attractions in Scandinavia, drawing roughly four to five million guests a year.
After dark Tivoli becomes a different garden. More than a hundred thousand small incandescent and LED lights are strung through the trees and along the lake, and the Chinese-style Pantomime Theatre lights up its peacock-tail curtain over the pond. Hans Christian Andersen visited often in the park's first years and wrote that the place inspired parts of The Nightingale. Walt Disney is documented to have visited in the early 1950s and drew on Tivoli's evening atmosphere while planning Disneyland.
Tivoli's year runs in four seasons rather than one. The main summer season opens in early April and runs into late September. Halloween reopens the park in mid-October with pumpkins along every path. The Christmas season from mid-November through New Year's Eve fills the lake with a fir-tree forest and the Nimb hotel facade with warm light. A winter season in February covers the weeks before spring. The 1914 wooden coaster Rutschebanen, with its onboard brakeman, still operates through every season the weather allows.