— — the island the cliffs went pale for.
“An island in the Limfjord, ringed by chalk-pale moler cliffs that step down to the water in slow horizontal bands. Hanklit rises above the fjord on the north shore; Salgerhøj sits a little inland, the highest point on the island. The light here is northern and even. Ferries cross from Thy. Most days, nobody hurries.
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Mors is the largest island in the Limfjord, the inland sea that cuts across northern Jutland from the North Sea to the Kattegat. Its main town is Nykøbing Mors on the east shore. The island covers roughly 367 square kilometres and holds about 20,000 people. Two bridges connect it to the mainland: the Sallingsund Bridge to the south and the Vilsund Bridge to the west. The land rises gently from sheltered fjord coast to the cliff-edged north, where the bedrock is moler, a diatomaceous earth laid down some 55 million years ago.
The pale cliffs at Hanklit and Salgerhøj are made of moler, a soft sediment of fossil diatoms streaked with thin black bands of volcanic ash. The ash bands record eruptions that fell across the North Atlantic during the Eocene, about 55 million years ago. Hanklit rises about 61 metres above the fjord; from the path along the top the bands read like horizontal brushstrokes. The Molerlandskabet, the moler landscape of Mors and neighbouring Fur, sits on Denmark's tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage.
Mors sits about three hours by car from Aarhus and four from Copenhagen by way of the Storebælt bridge. The Sallingsund Bridge crosses from Salling in the south; the Vilsund Bridge crosses from Thy in the west. A small ferry still runs from Feggesund on the north tip. Jesperhus, the country's largest flower park, draws families through summer; the moler cliffs draw walkers in shoulder seasons. The Molermuseet at Hesselbjerg sets the geology in context. Winter days are short this far north.