— — the city the volcano keeps watching.
“A city of more than a million on the north shore of Lake Kivu, where the lake meets the volcano. Nyiragongo's lava lake glows above the rooftops on clear nights; the 2002 and 2021 eruptions are still legible in the black rock that runs through neighbourhoods. The Rwandan border is a five-minute walk from the centre of town.
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Goma is the capital of North Kivu Province in the eastern Democratic Republic of the Congo, on the northern shore of Lake Kivu and the southern flank of the Virunga volcanoes. The city sits at about 1,500 metres elevation and crosses straight into the Rwandan border town of Gisenyi at the Petite Barrière and Grande Barrière crossings. Population estimates range above one million, swelled by displaced families from the long conflict in the surrounding hills. Mount Nyiragongo rises 18 km to the north, its summit holding one of the world's most persistent active lava lakes.
Goma's streets, walls, and yards are built on and out of black volcanic rock. The 2002 eruption of Nyiragongo sent lava through the city centre, destroying about 13% of the urban area and the airport's main runway; the January 2021 eruption again sent flows toward the city and forced an evacuation of roughly 400,000 people. Cooled lava is the local building stone, quarried, cut, and stacked into compound walls, and the runway at Goma International was rebuilt on top of the 2002 flow. The black rock is the city's most honest material.
Lake Kivu is one of the African Great Lakes, the deepest stretch reaching 480 metres, with the Congolese-Rwandan border running through its waters. The lake is unusual: dissolved methane and carbon dioxide are trapped in its lower layers in volumes scientists track carefully, since a destabilising event could be catastrophic for the two million people on its shores. Methane extraction by KivuWatt off the Rwandan side now powers part of the regional grid. From Goma's lakefront the water turns silver at dusk and you can see the lights of Gisenyi across a narrow inlet.